[200,000] is the population of nine refugee camps on the Thai Burma border. This is also the same number of Burmese refugees, including ethnic Shan, believed to be living outside the camps in Thailand.

• Flashback to Chris’s tale of “Helping Nu Nu Help the Kids“ about visiting Nu Nu, who has given up resettlement in order to provide care for a growing number of orphans in at a refugee camp in Northern Thailand.

[100] is the estimated number of Burmese who are arrested daily and held in Bangkok’s Immigration Detention Center.

• Read “The Best Way To Go To Jail in Thailand“ for an account of being a volunteer visitor in a Bangkok jail.

It is estimated that [80%] of refugees are women and children.

• At the end of May I took a trip to Future Light Children’s home in Mae Sot that houses and educates forty-one children. Here are photos and video from the trip and more information on how you can get involved.

It only takes hearing from [ONE] friend who is a refugee to understand the impossible situations they have survived and become inspired to act.

• You may remember Ryan’s story of fleeing with his family to Thailand, where they lived for about four years before they were able to reach the US. Ryan recently received his GED and hopes to soon be living his dream of attending college.

Remember it costs about $15 to give a families food supplies that will last two weeks. Please take the time and make a donation that will allow us to support a family in need. Thanks and if you’re in Bangkok and want to join our event find out more here.

~Dwight

I hope you all enjoyed last week’s video and photo update. Here’s more:

There are forty-one children at Future Light Children’s Home. We spent the morning playing games and doing art activities. The kids never grew tired of running around or hanging out with their new friends from Bangkok. Had any of them truly been tired, they surely would have been enthusiastically replaced by another brother or sister. By mid afternoon the play time had been converted into a group effort to do chores. The combination of the chores and the stifling Mae Sot heat made the kids yearn to go bathe in the nearby river.

“You know before the water is blue. But today, the water bad. Very brown. The rains not come.” This observation from one of the older boys didn’t seem to disparage his younger siblings at the orphanage. They had already jumped into the river from the rocky shore of the muddy Irrawaddy, not hesitating to begin bathing and playing. I looked up at the movement across the waters, examining the boats who were loudly vacillating between Thailand and Burma. The children, like the boats, are caught in a stateless limbo because of decades of conflict in Burma and Thailand’s muddy policy on refugees and migrants.

The children get three meals of day. A basic meal made of mostly rice and the vegetables that they grow behind the house. So when evening finally came I grinned and proposed to the house dad, Goin, that we sneak away right before dinner and get ice cream for all the kids. He agreed and off we went on his motorbike speeding towards town, but stopping once for gas just outside of Mae Sot. We took off once again to hunt down a bucket sized quantity of vanilla-raspberry swirl ice cream, but the bike stopped again–this time unexpectedly. Mai pen rai–or ‘nevermind’ in Thai I thought. We will work something out I rationed. Maybe someone will offer us a ride I thought, still being hopelessly optimistic. I will just call my team back at the orphanage to pick us up.

No, no, and no answer.

A mile later, still walking alongside the busted motorbike we had almost reached a bike shop that was already closed.

If nothing else was in our favor, the fact that a shop with a tub of ice cream was still open when our taxi arrived brought relief. Goin and I walked back in through the orphanage gates two and a half hours later. Everyone had already forgotten about dinner and kids had gathered singing and dancing their hearts out before bed (see a brief video clip here). Preoccupied with their singing, they didn’t notice the ice cream, the missing bike, or the overwhelming sense of relief we felt upon returning.

That night we scooped ice cream into cones, bowls, cups, and finally bare hands as kids made their second and third rounds for the treat. I can’t recall an instance where ice cream ever tasted so good, nor where the joy it spread was so abundant.

Feels great to have had the opportunity to spend with the kids of Future Light. This week we will be donating $1000 to them on behalf of the Cyril Duncan Siam Children’s Foundation. They are currently rebuilding their house and school and could use the support. If you want more info on making a donation yourself or voluntouring at Future Light you can contact them on facebook (or by emailing futurelightkids@gmail.com).

-Dwight

“Dream Big, Work Smart, Start Local.”

(Click here if the video does not appear.)

As you can guess, we’re still recovering some from the action packed days in Mae Sot. I’ll share more about the trip and what we’re doing to help the orphanage next week. This weekend we hope to get back on schedule teaching in Bangkok’s slums and reviving our group of volunters. Enjoy your weekend whereever you are and help us share what we’ve been busy doing by forwarding the photos and videos to friends and family. Thanks.

-Dwight

“Dream big, work smart, start local.”

There are more people out there like Charlotte who are doing and giving what they can to help people. I asked some of them to help explain what exactly “sanuk” is and how they had been involved with In Search of Sanuk. Enjoy reading their great answers.

Chris

“Sanuk is fun; in terms of what we do, sanuk is having a good time while helping out.“

[Involvement] The first thing I did with ISOS was help put together the ‘Taste of Sri Lanka’ refugee fundraiser event nearly a year ago.  From there, I began volunteering at Sanuk My Saturday (in Pinklao).  I was really enjoying it, and Dwight needed more help with the program, so I agreed to become the program coordinator.

[Sanuk is...] Sanuk is fun; in terms of what we do, sanuk is having a good time while helping out.  We want you to come to our events and enjoy yourself.  Volunteering should be fun, a break from your daily (perhaps tedious) day jobs.  We want you to look forward to coming back.

[Top Memory] This is a tough one…there are so many!  Mine is not so much one memory, but two little girls.  Tam and Om, two of the regular Pinklao kids, have a special place in my heart.  They make my Saturdays awesome, and remind me each time of why I’m involved.

Prae

“I believe in making a positive difference in the community that I live in.”

[Involvement] I believe in making a positive difference in the community that I live in. The number of nonprofits is growing in Bangkok but the number of people supporting them is dwindling. With ISOS, there are always opportunities to volunteer but fewer hands to help. I was very happy to be one of the volunteers at Sanuk My Saturday a month ago.

[Sanuk is...] to have a good time, to enjoy myself from the pleasure and joy of doing something good and fun.

[Top Memory] It was the giggles and smiles from the chidren. Some of them sneaked behind me and gave me a big sneak hug!

Becky

“They say they will never forget us all for as long as they live. How often do you get to impact people’s lives like that?”

[Involvement] I am involved with ISOS because a group that I organize has been featured on the web site. I organize groups of people to visit refugee families at the Immigration Detention Center. For each person that visits we can get one refugee out of their room for an hour. Children are roomed with one of the parents, so the other doesn’t get to see them unless they each have a visitor. One of the families has 7 members, 2 men & 5 women, so if we want this family to be able to have a visit, we need 7 volunteers to come sign them out. One of the daughters had a birthday recently, her 13th and what she wanted for her birthday was to get to see her father and brother! WOW, how many 13 year olds do you know who would be asking for that for their birthday? The things we take for granted! ISOS has been instrumental in bringing in a steady stream of willing & enthusiastic volunteers to help with these visits.

[Sanuk is...] I actually have no idea what it really means, but I know it’s Thai. To me it means enjoying life to the fullest in a meaningful way that makes you & others feel good about yourselves. For each of us it will be something different, which is why we each have to “search for our Sanuk!”

[Top Memory] My favorite ISOS memory is the day we had enough visitors to bring out the family of 7 for the first time. The women had not seen their son/brother for 2 1/2 years, because he’d been in detention for that long & the rest of the family was newly arrested. They were all crying & hugging each other. I was overwhelmed by how a simple act of 7 people taking a few hours out of their day could impact a family’s life. Also the letters I get that thank the volunteers for helping them keep the faith in humanity & the knowledge that they’ve not been forgotten. They say they will never forget us all for as long as they live. How often do you get to impact people’s lives like that?

Marc

“Sometimes I funnel funds or contacts to support the work of In Search of Sanuk.”

[Involvement] I am a fellow traveling micro-philanthropist and mentor to Dwight Turner. Sometimes I funnel funds or contacts to support the work of Sanuk.

[Sanuk is...] fun in Thai. So Dwight is having fun while helping others.

[Top Memory] The videos showing In Search of Sanuk in action.

Ryan

“… Dwight and other friends took me to the beach for the very first time in my life.”

[Involvement] The art show and party was the first time I was involved in ISOS. The event was trying to raise money and awareness for urban refugees in Thailand. I was a refugee myself at the time, which made me a beneficiary of the event, so getting involved and helping out seemed to be very logical thing for me to do. Later on, I became a much closer friend with Dwight and started volunteering as much as I could in ISOS’s activities. Eventually, Dwight made me coordinator of some the programs such as Sanuk my Saturday and participating in the planning of some the fundraisers we’ve done in the past.

[Sanuk is...] the Thai word for happiness or something worthwhile to do. The way I think of ISOS is that it’s not just about helping others, it’s also about how you can live differently. To me when I’m helping someone, their happiness is a reward that cannot be replaced by material things. I think “Sanuk” is a life style that each member of the community should embrace and it will have a transforming effect to the world we live in.

[Top Memory] The time when Dwight and other friends took me to the beach for the very first time in my life. Even though it wasn’t officially an ISOS event, but it was the very idea and group of people of ISOS. Even today, Dwight is still saying that my laugh from that trip was the most rewarding thing he received from me.

Om

“Sanuk is the joy that goes beyond our skin encapsulated ego.”

[Involvement] I’m currently a supporter in spirit from overseas (USA), trying my best to input an additional point of view.

[Sanuk is...] the joys that go beyond our skin encapsulated ego. Happiness only real when shared–a quote from the movie Into the Wild.

[Top Memory] Hmm…I haven’t had any direct experiences with ISOS yet (hopefully soon). Anyway, my favorite parts are probably when I hear about how curious and enthusiastic the kids or the communities were about learning or other creative activities, or how much fun they had despite their regular hard days.

Cody

“Volunteering, giving money to charity, and doing good for others doesn’t have to mean complete sacrifice and loss.”

[Involvement] I built In Search Of Sanuk’s website, have helped organize parties and mixers for charity, donated some money through my small business Thrilling Heroics Consulting to ISOS, and gone on volunteer trips with Dwight to Chonburi and Sangklaburi.

[Sanuk is...] fun, and to me, Dwight’s passion and exuberance are a symbol that you can do good things for others and have a blast at the same time. Volunteering, giving money to charity, and doing good for others doesn’t have to mean complete sacrifice and loss. Dwight is making it easy for all kinds of people to help give in small ways in Thailand, and he shows us that when you’re giving to someone else and sharing in the experience, it can put a big smile on your face.

[Top Memory] I think two of the most incredible and rewarding experiences I’ve had were taking a boatload of the kids from Chonburi Children’s Center on their annual trip to the beach and horse-playing with them all day, and visiting Baan Dada, a home for orphaned kids—many of them refugees—and just being influenced by those kids: making music together, playing football, learning from them.

Lola

“It was a magical affair. Plenty of volunteers, lots of creative energy flowing and smiles all around.”

[Involvement] I’m involved In Search Of Sanuk through the Saturday tutoring programs at Yommarat and Pinklao. I’m also helping to raise funds to sustain and expand ISOS.

[Sanuk is...] Fun? Living life as fully as you possibly can. Bearing witness to God’s grace and goodness.

[Top Memory] My favorite ISOS memory was the first “Big Fish” book day held at Pinkloa in January 2010. It was a magical affair. Plenty of volunteers, lots of creative energy flowing and smiles all around.

Paul

“…sharing love with children and people in disadvantaged situations is really meaningful…”

[Involvement] I am a friend of Dwight and enjoy catching up on how he helps people help other people, especially the children in the slums on Saturdays. I have also attended some of his cool fundraising social events.

[Sanuk is...] sharing love with children and people in disadvantaged situations is really meaningful; and it’s really fun when we partner up with others who share this compassion for fellow human beings to help them in a more powerful way than we can by ourselves.

[Top Memory] Dwight organized a team last fall to visit and play with the 35 orphans in Chonburi Center, and to take them out for a beach outing. They especially loved the buffet bbq dinner afterwards! Me too!

Jodi

“Sanuk is the look on a detainee’s face when they are reunited with a family member they haven’t seen in a long time.“

[Involvement] I became involved with ISOS when I arrived in Bangkok after almost 2 years of travel, and wanted to give something back to the communities I’ve been visiting. Friends in Bangkok pointed me toward Dwight and his many worthwhile projects. Having worked on asylum cases on a pro bono basis when I was a lawyer, I wanted to get involved with his
visits to IDC. I’ve been going to the Immigration Detention Centre to bring food, supplies and smiles to those who are there. I’ve also tried to mobilise the Twitter travel community passing through Bangkok to spend a morning in IDC. It’s important to give the regular backpacker a taste of what life is like for the many people who cannot leave the country.

[Sanuk is...] Sanuk is the look on a detainee’s face when they are reunited with a family member they haven’t seen in a long time. And for me, sanuk is being able to take something so decadent – travel for the sake of travel – and use my time for something worthwhile.

[Top Memory] Definitely seeing one of the detainees with a young baby be reunited with the baby for a brief moment – he was allowed to hold his child for a few moments, and the undeniable joy on his face was palpable and wonderful to see.

Morgan

“I have only been involved with ISOS for a short time, but it has been such a fun experience so far.”

[Involvement] I have only been involved with ISOS for a short time, but it has been such a fun experience so far. Meeting the kids in the program and practicing English and playing games with them has been a blast. The program is such a great way to reach the youth of Bangkok and support learning and of course FUN! I look forward to becoming an active member and participating in ISOS every week!

[Sanuk is...] the Thai word for FUN. ISOS means getting kids involved in learning by having FUN! Promoting learning through games and other fun activities is a great way to keep the kids interested and passionate about English!

[Top Memory] Although I have only recently joined ISOS, my favorite memory has been meeting all the kids and volunteers and playing fun games! Its a real bonding experience and they call it Sanuk for a reason!!

Tri

“It’s fun!”

[Involvement] Twitter.

[Sanuk is...] a type of billiard game (or pool in the US) … It’s fun!

[Top Memory] The attempt at interviewing the mute homeless guy would be it, especially when we both don’t write Thai that well and he couldn’t read Thai which makes writing Thai well pretty pointless.

Stewart

“I do remember sharing a Pepsi with Dwight in the middle of Klong Toey Slum.”

[Involvement] I am a friend of Dwight’s and a pastor in Bangkok. One of the things I’ve run into in Bangkok is that there are a significant number of people who would like to volunteer their time and expertise, but it can be hard to do. There are language and reliability barriers. Dwight is working to overcome the barriers and make it easier to do good. We have a common vision in that sense and so I’ve tried to provide my own contacts, support and referrals to ISOS.

[Sanuk is...] good clean fun. As a pastor I think another way to define it is abundant life, which is why Jesus said he came. Could you say Jesus came that we might have more sanuk? Maybe.

[Top Memory] I do remember sharing a Pepsi with Dwight in the middle of Klong Toey Slum when I introduced him to Urban Neighbors Of Hope and the Klong Toey Community Center.

Gavin

“I think it best translates as freedom.“

[Involvement] I’ve volunteered to take photos of ISOS events with the aim of providing some images to help raise awareness of the project. I feel that it’s a really worthwhile endeavour but, as is always the case with such projects, making people aware of the work that’s being done is crucial and I hope that I can offer a little assistance with that.

[Sanuk is...] In the context of In Search of Sanuk, I think it best translates as “Freedom”. ISOS offers the opportunity for people to explore things beyond their usual frames of reference. It’s about facilitating and enabling people to offer assistance where it is most needed and it provides a friendly and nurturing environment for those who benefit from ISOS work.

[Top memory] My first outing with ISOS where volunteers arrived at a school to be greeted with great enthusiasm by the children who had been awaiting their arrival. It was quite moving and testament to the positive impact that volunteers can have on a community.

Mark

“Sanuk is putting a smile on other people’s faces by having a smile on your own face…”

[Involvement] I am involved in a lot of random and often spontaneous events associated with ISOS. Chasing energized kids, splashing elderly ladies with flower water during the Songkran Festival, helping out with little jobs, and sampling the latest Sri Lankan food, have all been part of my role with ISOS.

[Sanuk is...] Sanuk is putting a smile on other people’s faces by having a smile on your own face, and often the smile on your own face is derived from others.

[Top Memory] There are many, but randomly showing up at the 2009 Christmas celebration at the school in Pinklao takes the cake. Upon arriving, Dwight and I were asked to perform an impromtu song infront of at least 200 happy kids, Little Thai kids dressed like Santa with green afro wigs and huge smiles is a priceless and uplifting sight. Following was a delightful feast of sen yai latnaa (rice noodles smothered in pork gravy). A fantastic way to celebrate Christmas and an awesome memory!

Thanks everyone for participating. I enjoyed reading these so much that I will include some of what people said on the website permanently. If you have something to add, please make a comment.

-Dwight

The waiting room is full and tense. There is a mixture or people from all backgrounds, packed together in a long but narrow corridor. They sit or stand shoulder to shoulder, but are worlds apart. I sit and hypothesize about that distance. Whether it’s the language barriers or the weight of solemn helplessness to aid loved ones that keeps people eerily quiet, I’m not sure. Then I sit and reflect on a few scenes I just witnessed coming in that seem to indicate the latter. A stream of shirtless, handcuffed Burmese men waiting with heavy eyes. Giant paddy wagons parked outside used in raids to arrest the people–our people–or people like them anyway.

“They sit or stand shoulder to shoulder, but are worlds apart.”

The paper work is done. And not a moment too soon, my sulking is abruptly interrupted by yelling in Thai. I understand and jump to my feet with the others. The command is followed by something broken and harsh, resembling English. I handover my passport for a locker key and crush my belongings inside. No camera and no phones is emphasized in the Thai commands over the importance of no metal or sharp objects. Is any connection to the outside a threat? I swallow that thought while they pat me down and carelessly molest the packages of food I’ve brought. Hands are waved and I wander over to the portable fence.

“I loathe this fence.”

Some of the detainees are already out and the searching and murmuring escalates. There is another row of port-o-fences partitioning the detainees from our fence with a meter or so in between, that at first impression seems to be a mile. The rest is a dysfunctional airport scene. Some elation, greetings, and smiles. The volume of the people shouting between the fences intensifies.

I loathe this fence.

It separates people in a different way than when we were outside. It is the physical personification of the same solemn helplessness I felt then. Damned fence. It doesn’t save me from the obvious desperation of the people on the other side, the heat of the sun, nor the stench from the toilets in the nearby cells.

I press my fingers through the fence and lean on it because I can see her now. “Mr. Noname!” she shouts.

I reply, “Happy Birthday.”

“Today there were enough volunteers to reunite her whole family during the visiting hour. We’re proud.”

She’s been here since the raids last October. Only a few months ago she was a regular attendant of the Saturday morning classes at the Bangkok Refugee Center, practicing her English with me, quizzing the other volunteers about the US, and teaming up with her friends to guess my name. When they couldn’t pry it out of me I was dubbed Mr. Noname. Today there were enough volunteers to reunite her whole family during the visiting hour. We’re proud.

Her smile is noticeably bigger than mine. She’s a teenager today. The other volunteers gather around the fence on our side. I glance around self consciously. Back to the dysfunctional airport scene. Back to the sign behind me that reads, “Don’t trow anything.” And finally, back to the fence. I join the others in crooning the happy birthday song through it. Later, they point over to the food supplies we brought, including bottled water and birthday cupcakes freshly smushed from the search.

The time is up. We wave goodbye to the beaming new teenager. I leave ashamed a little for comparing her birthday to ones I had. Or maybe from being unable to fully mirror her beautiful smile. But I’m thankful and positive–there’s no better way I could have spent my morning.

Join

This is just one of the many stories from the visits we’re making to IDC. It was built to temporarily house foreigners and migrants who overstayed visas or found themselves on the wrong side of Thai law. Thus it can often be quite crowded, without all the amenities of a normal prison. Many refugee families who are arrested end up there regardless of their status with the UN and with little recourse. Twice a week volunteers gather to visit, reunite the families, and bring supplies. Please consider donating or visiting with us while you’re in Bangkok.

Here’s a quote from Ryan who had to stay there a week before his family was resettled to the US:

“In IDC, people are short of everything…. They need most basic supplies, such as carbohydrates, vitamins, drinking water, and hygiene necessities. I know it’s gonna be really hard for yourself to make much different in these people’s life, but with more people actively involving in your program, I believe a lot of people’s life will be better.”

Other Good Ways to Go to Jail

There are other groups going into prisons and providing services to inmates. For example, the Christian Prison Ministry Foundation works with prisoners nearing release. In addition to giving religious guidance to inmates, they provide a series of educational classes to prepare participants to succeed once reintegrated back into society. CPMF is doing everything from art classes to running a halfway house for inmates. Get involved by volunteering to share a skill, especially if you have an interest in helping people rebuild their lives.

Get Uncomfortable

I understand that for many, visiting jails and detention centers aren’t the types of attractions you normally think of when you’re planning your trip to Thailand. I sure didn’t. But when you get in the habit of making yourself available to serve others, you’ll learn to love the adventure that is packaged with making a difference in people’s lives.

-Dwight

This holiday has also reminded me that everyday I am fortunate to be surrounded by courageous, inspirational women. They are key to the achievements of ISOS. To give you an idea, I went back and looked through our list of volunteers. It seems that for every 10 volunteers who join Sanuk My Saturday, 8 of them are female. The list didn’t include the all female teaching team, led by Chris, there every weekend. That’s a wake up call for two reasons. First, because I realize I need to do a better job of challenging some guys to come out and commit to helping these kids. They are desperate for the positive male attention they don’t get at home. Secondly, that I’d be an idiot to neglect to wish all the women reading a Happy International Women’s Day and send a sincere thank you for all you do.

-Dwight

Note: This isn’t an exhaustive list by far, as I have only included organizations I have personally worked with.

Sanuk My Saturday – Saturdays – Pinklao/Yommarat

This is the ISOS project teaching English in the slum that you’ve been hearing so much about the last few weeks. I’m trying to round up support for the project which we have expanded to a second location last weekend. For those unfamiliar, you can donate, sign up to volunteer, or read more about what we’re doing in last week’s update.

Little Light Project – Monthly – Victory Monument

Little Light is a special program for students at the Bangkok School for the Blind that encourages them to reach for their hopes and dreams with activities challenging the students to interact and discuss with volunteers. Join the LLP group to get updates and invitations to the sessions. Meet a few of the children in this brief video:

Friends for All Children – M-F – Samsen

FFAC is a home for orphaned infants and toddlers who hope to be adopted. Volunteers are encouraged to come spend time with kids during the week. If you survive feeding and changing time the overwhelming cuteness of these kids will keep you coming back. Visit the FFAC site for more.

SSS Foundation – M-F – Sukumvit 71

Hop off the BTS and a short taxi ride later you’re in a group of buildings used for the recreation and education of many of Bangkok’s children with special needs. Long term volunteers are preferred and will have the opportunity to aide the center with a variety of tasks from teaching English to physical therapy. More in [English] or [Thai]

IDC Visits - Mornings, M-F, Soi Suan Plu

Last year many ISOS volunteers who had been helping at Bangkok’s Refugee Center began getting more involved with visiting the Immigration Detention Center after raids on refugees resulted in many of our students being detained indefinitely. For every volunteer who joins, we are allowed to call one detainee and we use this to allow separated families to spend a few moments together. Volunteers are usually gathered twice a week and bring food, water, and other supplies to the families. See the volunteer page to get involved.

“Dream Big, Work Smart, Start Local.”

-Dwight

Our journey started from Bangkok with an overnight bus to Chiang Mai, a short flight from there to Mae Hong Song, and finally a sangthaew (think taxi meets the pickup truck) ride to Na Soi, approximately 40 kilometers away. In the calm, scenic hills of Na Soi lies the Na Soi Karenni Refugee Camp, just one of the many camps along the Thai-Burmese border. This particular camp houses around 25,000 ethnic refugees from Burma. While waiting for Moses, a Karenni refugee, to arrive to motorbike us back to our accommodation, we gaze up at a modest temple, once hit by a mortar in a raid on the camp by the SPDC. The Burmese border is a mere six kilometers away, and imagining the Burmese army coming into such a pristine place seemed unthinkable; however, in 1997, 10 people were killed in such an attack. I found myself wondering, how could the Thai government allow the SPDC to enter their country, attack on their soil, and then just leave again?

“We were called to Na Soi by a plea for help. “

We were called to Na Soi by a plea for help. Nu Nu, an elderly Karenni refugee who has been living in the camp since April 1995, has been running an orphanage since 2000. Quite simply, she has run out of money and needs supplies and food. The refugee monthly food allotments are shockingly sparse: 15 kilograms of rice, one kilogram of yellow beans, half a kilogram of salt, and one kilogram of cooking oil. All other food must be bought with their own money. Not allowed to farm, raise livestock except pigs, work, or leave the camp, Nu Nu’s prospects are thin. We entered Nu Nu’s sister’s house, also a refugee who was lucky enough to buy her way out of the camp and into a proper house surrounded by banana trees.

Some of the kids when we first arrived.

In the sparsely furnished great room sat 22 children, ages ranging from four years old to 19 years old, who promptly stood up when we entered. Without introduction, we were given seats, and immediately treated to some songs and speeches prepared by Nu Nu and the children. Their singing, in Karenni and in English, was very good, and very touching (Click here to see a video of the children singing). One song in particular brought tears to my eyes; beneath their lovely harmony was a plea for God not to forget about them. About an hour and a half walk from the camp, the children must walk in small groups of three or four, so as not to attract attention from the police at the checkpoints. If caught outside the camp, the refugees–children included– will be put into jail until a fine of 4000Baht ($120) can be paid, a huge sum for any refugee. Because of the risk involved, they only manage to leave the camp once every two to three months.

“This process is far from perfect–but it’s the only thing the children have to give them hope.”

"She dreams of a different life and wants more education to become a nurse."

This group of orphans have been with Nu Nu for about three months. The previous group has mostly been relocated. Everyone in the new group has UNHCR numbers, and are in various stages of applying for resettlement. However, even if accepted for relocation to Australia, Finland, or the USA, they must wait until they are at least 18 years old. This process is far from perfect–but it’s the only thing the children have to give them hope.

We had the chance to interview some of the children, with the help of Moses for translation. The orphans were a little shy, but one thing rang true: their desire for a better life.

Gay, a 15-year-old girl from the Karen state, is trying to go to Finland. She came to the camp when she was seven years old with her uncle. She has no memory of Burma or her journey to Thailand. All she knows about it is what she has been told. Her father is dead, and her mother stayed in Burma to look after her three younger sisters; she has no contact with her family and does not know what their status is. Gay dreams of a different life in Finland and wants more education to become a nurse.

"She wants what the camps can't offer: freedom."

Htoo is 14 years old, from the Karenni state. She has been with Nu Nu for three years. Her brother came to the camp first, but returned for her when the SPDC attacked her village five years ago. The village was burned and her father forced to become a porter. Porters are forced to carry a lot of weight; if the porter cannot carry the load, they are often beaten and sometimes killed. Porters also are forced to lead the expeditions in order to clear the mines for the soldiers. Htoo says she feels okay in the camp, but wants to go somewhere else because there are not enough facilities, such as higher education. She wants what the camps can’t offer: freedom. Chorest is 19 years old and from the Karen state. He had to flee to Thailand when he was 10 years old because the SPDC burnt his village down. In the rush of the attack, he left with other villagers, leaving his family behind. One of the few children in the orphanage that can remember his escape to Thailand, Chorest recalls walking for one month through the hills of Burma, dodging the SPDC and their guns. With no job opportunities, no freedoms, and no higher education available in the camp, he wants to go abroad and dreams of becoming a doctor. However, if he could choose, he says he would like to legally live and work in Thailand, in order to be closer to his homeland. Sadly, the chances of this happening are slim. He is currently waiting to relocate to the USA.

“Within the orphanage, the past is never discussed…”

"With no job opportunities, no freedoms, and no higher education available in the camp, he wants to go abroad and dreams of becoming a doctor."

Within the orphanage, the past is never discussed, nor, according to Nu Nu, do the children ever cry over their families or their fates. Perhaps this is because many refugees psychologically block out such traumatic experiences. Nu Nu, however, remembers everything. She still remembers vividly December 6, 1980, when the SPDC (then called SLORC), attacked her village, shooting, killing, torturing, and burning as they went. Several people were forced to be porters. She also remembers her father being killed when she was 7 years old. He was driving near their village when he was ambushed by the SLORC and brutally attacked. Almost miraculously, her mother found him and kept him alive for 2 months before he died from the wounds. Nu Nu’s husband was also killed by the SPDC. So what does Nu Nu want? She doesn’t have any illusions about getting out of the camp. But she does want a friendship between the SPDC and the people. While not necessarily supporting tourism in Burma, Nu Nu is calling for foreign investment. She believes that building factories and infrastructure is the way toward a better Burma. And she has a message for Obama too: “Make friends with Burma. Find a way to work things out.”

"Make friends with Burma. Find a way to work things out."

That night we were given wonderful hospitality. They cooked the most delicious foods for us and gave us a place to sleep for the night. I’ve seen it time and again in my travels, but it never fails to amaze me how people with so little willingly give so much for their guests. That night I also began to see Nu Nu’s remarkable love for these children, many of which, she has raised since they were little. As we packed up in the early morning for another long journey back, Nu Nu slipped us a piece of paper. On it was a list of supplies needed, such as bedding, mosquito nets, clothing, dishes, and umbrellas. We all left a small donation and sadly said our goodbyes. Being able to talk to the refugees, look into their eyes and hear their stories is an experience which will stay with me for a long time. While I may not be able right now to change policy, am I able to help make 40 children’s lives better. I hope you can too.

You can donate to Nu Nu through In Search of Sanuk. Just be sure to note that the donation is for Nu Nu. Or, if you would like to make a direct transfer, banking details can be found on the Nu Nu Project’s facebook group. For more information contact Regan Suzuki at regsuzuki@hotmail.com. Thanks for reading and remember:

“Make friends with Burma. Find a way to work things out.”

-Chris

I want to share my visit to a small makeshift school west of Bangkok. The school has been setup to teach the children of mill workers from Burma who can’t afford to send their kids to public schools. These Burmese migrants have come to Bangkok for various reasons including the promise of economic opportunity, bonded servitude, persecution by the Burmese government, and as trafficking victims.

After spending some time with students at the overcrowded school, I visited the home of one child who hasn’t been attending. I found out he stays home all day while his mother who has AIDS is working in the mill. His dad was already dead from the disease. He has an older sister, 15, also away working in the mill and a younger brother who I had just met at the school. Unlike the active younger brother, he was in particularly poor health because he had contracted TB in addition to the AIDS from his parents. Furthermore, he had already lost the ability to open his right eye and the functionality in one of his hands due to his poor health.

Heartbreaking, right? Well this is normally where someone jumps out in a green suit and screams, “Donate Now!” I know what you’re thinking because I was expecting the same thing while I sat on the floor in the tiny room meant to house a whole family. However, I sat almost unnoticed while the boy focused his good eye on the Burmese school master. She asked about the rest of the family, his medicine, his ability to walk and finally made her way around to why I had come. She asked him, “Is there anything you want to eat? There are some guests with us today and perhaps you can request something from them.” He smiled a toothy grin and the teachers laughed and explained he asked for durian. Durian is a favorite among the Burmese, but if you didn’t grow up eating it then the name of this pungent fruit probably strikes fear in your heart (or atleast nostrils). Of all the things he could ask for, I thought. Then I laughed and breathed a self-absorbed sigh of relief because I didn’t have to take him to a Sizzler in Bangkok.

“Does he have any toys? What does he want?” I asked.

“A car.”

“What color?” I inquired further.

“A red car.”

“Ok.”

The end. (You can see pictures here).

There’s no plea here for donations here. Instead, I’m begging you to consider your exposure and response to issues hurting your community. For some of us poverty exists only in infomercials. So how do you respond when you really do have opportunities to help people? Are you afraid of what you have to lose? Is there anything too small to help someone else? Anything too big? While you may not be inspired to start a NGO or pick up and move to a village in a developing nation—I’m hoping that if given the chance, you’d do anything to make sure one sick little boy gets his durian and red car.

~Dwight

Quite by accident, I found out about an orphanage, Jeewan Uttan, with twenty-six children in Kathmandu, Nepal. Each month the woman who owns this orphanage, Bina, is struggling to find the Rupees to pay for rent, food, clothing, school fees, books, shoes, and transportation. There is never enough. They have no consistent support and from the point of view of capacity, she really shouldn’t have an orphanage at all. But from the point of view of the compassionate heart, it is absolutely fantastic that she has this orphanage she is running for less than a shoestring.

The children are mostly Tamang, one of the largest ethnic groups with a predominately poor population. There are a few Dalits (untouchable caste) who are even lower in the caste system. All the children come from Bina’s Tamang village in Eastern Nepal in the Malanchi district (about a five hour drive and a three day hike from Kathmandu). Many of them have had horrific beginnings in their short lives: neglect, beatings, alcoholic parents, lack of decent schools or no access at all to education, and they have no resources for help.

I met Bina and we liked each other from the start and became good friends. Really it was a match made in heaven. She was accomplishing many projects with very little money. She was a social activist as well as a humanitarian worker and she returned to her village at least ten days every month in order to help the local people. How she managed to help them with so little money is a story I have yet to hear. So I had ready cash, nineteen years of experience as a humanitarian aid worker on the micro level, some good connections and I’m not shy about making more (which is exactly what happened). I got to know Bina better and learned that she was one hundred percent trust worthy. The first thing I did was to take her on a shopping spree. They needed 26 of everything. 26 blankets. 26 shoes, 26 school uniforms, 26 of everything!…. I thought the van would burst but when we arrived at the orphanage the children were so excited.

But I also knew that it was important that eventually Jeewan Uttan should be able to be partially self-supporting. Towards that end, funds have been provided for them to start their own business selling candles, incense, and soap. Within twelve months, they should be able to earn about one third of their budgetary needs.

Now things at the orphanage are much more stable and since basic needs like food, clothing, bedding, and transportation are being taken care of on a regular basis, Bina can now concentrate on their psychological needs and issues related to their development. And there is time for fun! On my last visit I took all of the children for the day to Dragon World, an amusement park filled with rides including bumper cars and toy trains.

Bina also goes to her village in Eastern Nepal every month in Melanchi District. I accompanied her there in November 2008. It is a bumpy four-hour bus ride and then a six-hour walk up a very steep Himalayan trail. When we reached the top, we found ourselves at a Buddhist monastery run by a forty-year old monk named Guru who was accompanied by nine boy monks who were also orphans. The beautiful two hundred and fifty year old monastery also functioned as an orphanage. It was in terrible condition with loads of termite damage, structural deficiencies, and water damage. After a long discussion, I learned that $1200 would completely restore the building. The labor would be provided for free by local villagers.

Since the monastery was also an orphanage, the funds could be provided by100 Friends. The renovations are now complete. 100 Friends also supplied food, clothing, school supplies, soap, toothbrushes and many other materials for the children. After we left the monastery, we still had three more days of trekking through Melanchi. Everywhere we went people recognized Bina. On several occasions, we met extremely poor people who needed medical attention. One man only had one foot and really needed a prosthetic device. Another man needed to go to an eye hospital to save his vision. A widow with five children needed foot surgery on both of her feet- she hadn’t walked properly for fifteen years! All of these people (and more) were eventually brought to Kathmandu and all received treatments that were successful.

We also met a boy named Sanjay. Sanjay had no parents and was “looked after” by a mean, alcoholic grandfather who often beat him and worked him far too hard. After one beating, his shin was badly broken and never repaired leaving Sanjay crippled. He had never been to school or held a book. Now he is the twentieth child in Bina’s orphanage and happily going to school. His leg will have to be broken in surgery but I am assured he will be playing soccer by summer.

But we are most excited about a program that has a high chance of being funded for at least the next five years. For several years I have been endeavoring to create a program to help prevent the trafficking of young girls into sexual (and work) slavery and also to rescue and rehabilitate girls already trafficked. I have been trying to start such a program in Cambodia but I found it to be not only difficult but, as I later learned, potentially extremely dangerous.

I was stymied until I met Bina. She also wanted to start such a program, but she never had the funds or a foreign partner. I have a potential donor, connections and a certain amount of experience. Her Tamang community in Eastern Nepal has been suffering from this activity for many years. She knows where and how this problem exists and together we have determined what type of program could be developed to protect and assist hundreds if not thousands of poor young little girls at risk. I have no doubt that this program will be in operation within 6-8 months.

So all of this (and more to come!) has happened as a result of a chance meeting in a restaurant in Kathmandu last year. One can only wonder where it will all lead.

-Marc Gold

Click to read more about Marc Gold & 100 Friends